scarf jointing fascia boards

[Osprey]

Fitting a number of new fascias to a new project.
Paid extra to get 1" finished thickness softwood & with the Taurus
moulding I wanted.

For joints mid run, intend using 45 degree scarf joints (lined up over
rafter end) .... should these be glued or left dry ?

Finish will be dark wood stain.

[BigWallop]

Post by Osprey
Fitting a number of new fascias to a new project.
Paid extra to get 1" finished thickness softwood & with the Taurus
moulding I wanted.
For joints mid run, intend using 45 degree scarf joints (lined up over
rafter end) .... should these be glued or left dry ?
Finish will be dark wood stain.

This any help? http://www.diynot.com/pages/ww/ww017.php

[d***@gglz.com]

Post by Osprey
For joints mid run, intend using 45 degree scarf joints (lined up over
rafter end) .... should these be glued or left dry ?

Alternatively you could join them at ground level (assuming you and a
mate can lift a full-length run into place).

Then you could aim for the joints to fall between rafters, and butt
join them, along with an additional timber plate on the back - glued
and screwed into place.

This approach would have the advantage of getting the fascia perfectly
straight (assuming the building is straight enough to accomodate it!)

Regardless of what approach you use - polyurethane glue is good for
closing up and sealing watertight joints.

I would think most installers are much less fussy - at best you'd get
some paint on the end grain of a butt joint on a rafter end.

[John Rumm]

Post by d***@gglz.com

Post by Osprey
For joints mid run, intend using 45 degree scarf joints (lined up over
rafter end) .... should these be glued or left dry ?

Alternatively you could join them at ground level (assuming you and a
mate can lift a full-length run into place).
Then you could aim for the joints to fall between rafters, and butt
join them, along with an additional timber plate on the back - glued
and screwed into place.
This approach would have the advantage of getting the fascia perfectly
straight (assuming the building is straight enough to accomodate it!)
Regardless of what approach you use - polyurethane glue is good for
closing up and sealing watertight joints.
I would think most installers are much less fussy - at best you'd get
some paint on the end grain of a butt joint on a rafter end.

If you sue a waterproof glue and the scarf joint, then if it ever does
open up, the glue should ensure the ends don't soak up water, and the
scarf will mean you don't get such and obvious visible line where the
gap is.

(just because most installers CBA, does not mean you have to do the
same!) ;-)
--
Cheers,

John.

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[Osprey]

Post by d***@gglz.com

For joints mid run, intend using 45 degreescarfjoints (lined up over
rafter end) .... should these be glued or left dry ?

Alternatively you could join them at ground level (assuming you and a
mate can lift a full-length run into place).
Then you could aim for the joints to fall between rafters, and butt
join them, along with an additional timber plate on the back - glued
and screwed into place.
This approach would have the advantage of getting thefasciaperfectly
straight (assuming the building is straight enough to accomodate it!)
Regardless of what approach you use - polyurethane glue is good for
closing up and sealing watertight joints.
I would think most installers are much less fussy - at best you'd get
some paint on the end grain of a buttjointon a rafter end.

I agree ... on installers, I will even be coating rear of fascias with
stain, as it help uneven moisture absorption.

Had a tip to make scarf joint more longer i.e. much more acute than 45
degree ...

Jointing up lengths and reinforcing with back timber seems a good
idea, I could add some biscuits as well.

Just routed a 10mm slot along all the lengths to take soffits .... so
pre-jointing seems like another 'prep job' that may be worth doing.