11W(ish) E27 golf ball dimmable LED?

[David]

I have a 70W halogen bulb - E27 golf ball shape - which has just blown
(well, when I finally replaced the faulty dimmer it didn't work, but it
could have failed some time ago).

Replacement would be 11W(ish) E27 golf ball dimmable LED?
However the replacement (for the moment) is from TCP and labelled 12W 1055
lumen.
This is close, but it is a full sized bulb, not golf ball.
I suspect the golf ball size was to place the bulb in the centre of the
light fitting as far away from the plastic half dome cover as possible.
Because heat.
However the LED shouldn't be chucking out anywhere near the same amount of
heat.

So far I am unable to find an equivalent lamp in the golf ball size.
There are lower wattages but nothing up above about 5W.
Is this a design constraint?
Are my search terms not working (as usual)?

Cheers



Dave R

[The Natural Philosopher]

Post by David
70W halogen bulb

1/. I seriously doubt you can fit a reliable 70W halogen into golf ball size
2/. Something in the 6W white LED rather than cold white, will suffice.

I have loads of 12v 50W halogens spots and the LED equivalent that is
identically bright is 5W.

Simply go on amazon and get the highest daylight white dimmable E27 golf
ball LED you can find.

[David]

Post by The Natural Philosopher

Post by David
70W halogen bulb

1/. I seriously doubt you can fit a reliable 70W halogen into golf ball
size 2/. Something in the 6W white LED rather than cold white, will
suffice.
I have loads of 12v 50W halogens spots and the LED equivalent that is
identically bright is 5W.
Simply go on amazon and get the highest daylight white dimmable E27 golf
ball LED you can find.

"I seriously doubt you can fit a reliable 70W halogen into golf ball size "

Noting that the outside lights (a pair) in question have worked fine over
the last 12+ years with, as far as I can tell, the original Homebase 70W
golf ball halogens.

This seems to be reliable enough to me, despite your doubts.



Additional notes: the failing bulb had the globe detached from the base.
The base had what looked like an everyday halogen light with two prongs
fixed into the base.
It makes me wonder how long the globe has been detached, and if it served
any function apart from diffusing the light and keeping fingers away from
the halogen bulb.

Cheers



Dave R

[Harry Bloomfield Esq]

Post by David
Noting that the outside lights (a pair) in question have worked fine over
the last 12+ years with, as far as I can tell, the original Homebase 70W
golf ball halogens.

There are two factors to consider...

1. The light fittings ability to withstand heat from the lamp.
2. The lamps ability the satisfactorily cool itself, if an LED.

LED's are very susceptable to heat damage. Just a little heat, can
dramatically reduce their working life, unlike halogen, or tungsten.

I swapped some 50w halogen lamps, in walllights, with their shades open
at the bottom, closed base uppermost, for 5w LED's. They ran much
cooler, but still only survived 12 months. I recently replaced them, but
only after turning the fittings 180, so they were open at the top,
hopefully allowing heat to rise and escape, so they run with a cooler
base. The base is the important thing, where much of the heat is
generated, and most susceptable to heat due to the components therin.

[David]

Post by Harry Bloomfield Esq

Post by David
Noting that the outside lights (a pair) in question have worked fine
over the last 12+ years with, as far as I can tell, the original
Homebase 70W golf ball halogens.

There are two factors to consider...
1. The light fittings ability to withstand heat from the lamp.
2. The lamps ability the satisfactorily cool itself, if an LED.
LED's are very susceptable to heat damage. Just a little heat, can
dramatically reduce their working life, unlike halogen, or tungsten.
I swapped some 50w halogen lamps, in walllights, with their shades open
at the bottom, closed base uppermost, for 5w LED's. They ran much
cooler, but still only survived 12 months. I recently replaced them, but
only after turning the fittings 180, so they were open at the top,
hopefully allowing heat to rise and escape, so they run with a cooler
base. The base is the important thing, where much of the heat is
generated, and most susceptable to heat due to the components therin.

Thanks.
This may explain why they don't seem to make high wattages in small form
factors.
These outside lights don't get a massive amount of use, virtually none in
summer, but they are very useful in the winter for trips outside for
various things.

Being a sealed waterproof fitting this is unlikely to aid cooling.

We shall see how we go!

Cheers



Dave R