clean cutting blade for Makita DSS611Z circular saw

Post by Mike Halmarack
Just ordered the above saw. It's online picture shows quite an
aggressive blade fitted. I need to cut up an 8' x 4' x 3/4" into
narrow boards to make some wall units. Which blade would I need to
get so as to make the cut edges as smooth and clean as possible
straight from the saw?

You probably need a straight edge longer than your cut and clamped to
your work-piece. Rather than using the supplied short fence run the base
of the saw along the side of the straight edge.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-04 10:09:00 UTC

Post by alan_m

Possibly a 165mm 80 tooth blade. Youtube reviews says a 20mm abor.
Thin kerf (for cordless)
https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/product/tct-circular-blade-165mm-x-80t-thin-kerf/
Thicker kerf (out of stock at present)
https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/product/tct-circular-blade-165mm-x-80t/
Set the correct blade depth and properly support the work piece so the
blade doesn't bind - as shown in
http://youtu.be/VZ4bvA3WK50
You probably need a straight edge longer than your cut and clamped to
your work-piece. Rather than using the supplied short fence run the base
of the saw along the side of the straight edge.

Greatly useful info Alan, thanks.
I'll go for one of these, though I was surprised to see the plate with
of the saw was said to be 1mm.

--
Mike

Andy Burns

2024-11-04 09:44:14 UTC

I have a 190mm mains powered version, it came with a 12T blade and I
bought a 24T blade, between them they've given good cuts on 8x2 oak, 3/4
OSB and various thicknesses of ply. So far I've not felt the need for
40/60/80T blades.

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-04 10:12:06 UTC

Post by Andy Burns

I think this selection of blades would probably do for my purposes.
But I do tend to go near the extreme when things get unfamiliar, just
to be on the safe side.

--
Mike

Andy Burns

2024-11-04 12:10:22 UTC

Post by Andy Burns
I have a 190mm mains powered version, it came with a 12T blade and I
bought a 24T blade, between them they've given good cuts on 8x2 oak, 3/4
OSB and various thicknesses of ply. So far I've not felt the need for
40/60/80T blades.

I think this selection of blades would probably do for my purposes.
But I do tend to go near the extreme when things get unfamiliar, just
to be on the safe side.

Obviously, not having any of the higher tooth blades for my circ saw, I
can't comment on what difference they would make. You didn't mention if
your sheet material is going to be ply or MDF?

I do have a 60T blade in my mitre saw, but that's a larger blade ...

Paul

2024-11-04 10:48:10 UTC

It's shown delivered with a 6 1/2" blade with 16T (the blade is for "ripping",
where the quality of the cut is not the concern and just the
speed of the cut matters to the operator).

I can find a 40T, 60T, 90T.

This 90T is similar to the larger blade I have on the table
saw which is a 180T. You can see the tooth shape changes
when the tooth count goes up. The table saw is a 10" blade (255mm),
so there is more room for teeth.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW9153-2-Inch-Paneling-Cutting/dp/B00008WFT2

The Dewalt 90T blade is 7000 RPM max.

The battery Makita saw is "No Load Speed 3,700 RPM", so
the blade should be quite safe in that case, on RPMs.

The throat on the saw (max thickness of wood you can saw) matters.
This is one reason I would shop retail and look at the saws,
and judge whether this is what I want. No matter what you buy,
there is always a piece of wood which is too thick for your
toy. I have a few posts here, where you can see there were
"four cuts plus a handsaw cut" and the end of the post is
never quite flat as a result. That's because the kerf of the
circular saw, is different than the handsaw kerf.

"Kerf is defined as the width of material that is removed by the cutting/sawing process."

You might find the 16T blade has a wider kerf than the 90T blade,
as an example. You are unlikely to be changing the blade back
and forth, and discover this :-) Normally, once you put a blade
on the saw, being lazy, it usually stays there.

Paul

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-04 11:01:56 UTC

It's shown delivered with a 6 1/2" blade with 16T (the blade is for "ripping",
where the quality of the cut is not the concern and just the
speed of the cut matters to the operator).
I can find a 40T, 60T, 90T.
This 90T is similar to the larger blade I have on the table
saw which is a 180T. You can see the tooth shape changes
when the tooth count goes up. The table saw is a 10" blade (255mm),
so there is more room for teeth.
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW9153-2-Inch-Paneling-Cutting/dp/B00008WFT2
The Dewalt 90T blade is 7000 RPM max.
The battery Makita saw is "No Load Speed 3,700 RPM", so
the blade should be quite safe in that case, on RPMs.
The throat on the saw (max thickness of wood you can saw) matters.
This is one reason I would shop retail and look at the saws,
and judge whether this is what I want. No matter what you buy,
there is always a piece of wood which is too thick for your
toy. I have a few posts here, where you can see there were
"four cuts plus a handsaw cut" and the end of the post is
never quite flat as a result. That's because the kerf of the
circular saw, is different than the handsaw kerf.
"Kerf is defined as the width of material that is removed by the cutting/sawing process."
You might find the 16T blade has a wider kerf than the 90T blade,
as an example. You are unlikely to be changing the blade back
and forth, and discover this :-) Normally, once you put a blade
on the saw, being lazy, it usually stays there.
Paul

Thanks for the useful information Paul. I just bought an 80T blade as
suggested by Alan. I might be tempted to leave it fitted permanently
for general purposes out of laziness but I somehow don't think I'll
get away with it.

--
Mike

Tricky Dicky

2024-11-04 13:54:04 UTC

It's shown delivered with a 6 1/2" blade with 16T (the blade is for "ripping",
where the quality of the cut is not the concern and just the
speed of the cut matters to the operator).
I can find a 40T, 60T, 90T.
This 90T is similar to the larger blade I have on the table
saw which is a 180T. You can see the tooth shape changes
when the tooth count goes up. The table saw is a 10" blade (255mm),
so there is more room for teeth.
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW9153-2-Inch-Paneling-Cutting/dp/B00008WFT2
The Dewalt 90T blade is 7000 RPM max.
The battery Makita saw is "No Load Speed 3,700 RPM", so
the blade should be quite safe in that case, on RPMs.
The throat on the saw (max thickness of wood you can saw) matters.
This is one reason I would shop retail and look at the saws,
and judge whether this is what I want. No matter what you buy,
there is always a piece of wood which is too thick for your
toy. I have a few posts here, where you can see there were
"four cuts plus a handsaw cut" and the end of the post is
never quite flat as a result. That's because the kerf of the
circular saw, is different than the handsaw kerf.
"Kerf is defined as the width of material that is removed by the cutting/sawing process."
You might find the 16T blade has a wider kerf than the 90T blade,
as an example. You are unlikely to be changing the blade back
and forth, and discover this :-) Normally, once you put a blade
on the saw, being lazy, it usually stays there.
Paul

Blades with high tooth counts are more useful for manufactured boards. I
recently bought a 100T 255mm diam. from Saxton blades for my table saw and
used it to cut melamine faced board, despite not having a zero clearance
throat plate you would be hard pushed to tell which way up the boards were
cut.

Richard

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-04 15:29:17 UTC

On Mon, 4 Nov 2024 13:54:04 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky

Post by Tricky Dicky

It's shown delivered with a 6 1/2" blade with 16T (the blade is for "ripping",
where the quality of the cut is not the concern and just the
speed of the cut matters to the operator).
I can find a 40T, 60T, 90T.
This 90T is similar to the larger blade I have on the table
saw which is a 180T. You can see the tooth shape changes
when the tooth count goes up. The table saw is a 10" blade (255mm),
so there is more room for teeth.
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW9153-2-Inch-Paneling-Cutting/dp/B00008WFT2
The Dewalt 90T blade is 7000 RPM max.
The battery Makita saw is "No Load Speed 3,700 RPM", so
the blade should be quite safe in that case, on RPMs.
The throat on the saw (max thickness of wood you can saw) matters.
This is one reason I would shop retail and look at the saws,
and judge whether this is what I want. No matter what you buy,
there is always a piece of wood which is too thick for your
toy. I have a few posts here, where you can see there were
"four cuts plus a handsaw cut" and the end of the post is
never quite flat as a result. That's because the kerf of the
circular saw, is different than the handsaw kerf.
"Kerf is defined as the width of material that is removed by the cutting/sawing process."
You might find the 16T blade has a wider kerf than the 90T blade,
as an example. You are unlikely to be changing the blade back
and forth, and discover this :-) Normally, once you put a blade
on the saw, being lazy, it usually stays there.
Paul

I got this bit of kit for plywood. It will be a treat to minimise the
finishing of the edges.

--
Mike

John Rumm

2024-11-05 12:51:25 UTC

Post by Mike Halmarack
On Mon, 4 Nov 2024 13:54:04 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky

Post by Tricky Dicky

It's shown delivered with a 6 1/2" blade with 16T (the blade is for "ripping",
where the quality of the cut is not the concern and just the
speed of the cut matters to the operator).
I can find a 40T, 60T, 90T.
This 90T is similar to the larger blade I have on the table
saw which is a 180T. You can see the tooth shape changes
when the tooth count goes up. The table saw is a 10" blade (255mm),
so there is more room for teeth.
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW9153-2-Inch-Paneling-Cutting/dp/B00008WFT2
The Dewalt 90T blade is 7000 RPM max.
The battery Makita saw is "No Load Speed 3,700 RPM", so
the blade should be quite safe in that case, on RPMs.
The throat on the saw (max thickness of wood you can saw) matters.
This is one reason I would shop retail and look at the saws,
and judge whether this is what I want. No matter what you buy,
there is always a piece of wood which is too thick for your
toy. I have a few posts here, where you can see there were
"four cuts plus a handsaw cut" and the end of the post is
never quite flat as a result. That's because the kerf of the
circular saw, is different than the handsaw kerf.
"Kerf is defined as the width of material that is removed by the cutting/sawing process."
You might find the 16T blade has a wider kerf than the 90T blade,
as an example. You are unlikely to be changing the blade back
and forth, and discover this :-) Normally, once you put a blade
on the saw, being lazy, it usually stays there.
Paul

I got this bit of kit for plywood. It will be a treat to minimise the
finishing of the edges.

Even with a ripping blade, you can get a decent cut if you do a very
shallow scoring pass first:

https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Circular_saw_techniques
--
Cheers,

John.

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\=================================================================/

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-06 08:58:09 UTC

On Tue, 5 Nov 2024 12:51:25 +0000, John Rumm

Post by John Rumm
Even with a ripping blade, you can get a decent cut if you do a very
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Circular_saw_techniques

That's something I'll be sure to practice, thanks.

--
Mike

RJH

2024-11-06 11:07:53 UTC

Post by John Rumm

Post by Mike Halmarack
I got this bit of kit for plywood. It will be a treat to minimise the
finishing of the edges.

Even with a ripping blade, you can get a decent cut if you do a very
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Circular_saw_techniques

Just this moment put that to the test with some cheap laminate - worked a
treat!

--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

John Rumm

2024-11-06 13:00:54 UTC

Post by RJH

Post by John Rumm

Post by Mike Halmarack
I got this bit of kit for plywood. It will be a treat to minimise the
finishing of the edges.

Even with a ripping blade, you can get a decent cut if you do a very
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Circular_saw_techniques

Just this moment put that to the test with some cheap laminate - worked a
treat!

In some cases you can take it even further by doing your scoring cut
backwards (i.e. pulling the saw towards you)

(can also be used for full depth cuts when using a masonry cutting blade
and you need a chip free edge)
--
Cheers,

John.

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\=================================================================/

Andrew

2024-11-04 11:58:22 UTC

If you had bought it from a decent wood merchant, they should
have been able to cut it for you, and cut dead straight lines
too which you definitely cannot without cutting guide.

Even some larger B&Q's used to have this facility.

Wenban Smith in Worthing would definitely have cut it for
you and probably fine-finished the edges. Plenty more
outfits like WenSmith around the country too.

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-04 15:26:59 UTC

Post by Andrew

If you had bought it from a decent wood merchant, they should
have been able to cut it for you, and cut dead straight lines
too which you definitely cannot without cutting guide.
Even some larger B&Q's used to have this facility.
Wenban Smith in Worthing would definitely have cut it for
you and probably fine-finished the edges. Plenty more
outfits like WenSmith around the country too.

I just wanted to buy some useful tools.
And use them while I still can.

--
Mike

alan_m

2024-11-04 18:25:43 UTC

Post by Andrew

If you had bought it from a decent wood merchant, they should
have been able to cut it for you, and cut dead straight lines
too which you definitely cannot without cutting guide.
Even some larger B&Q's used to have this facility.
Wenban Smith in Worthing would definitely have cut it for
you and probably fine-finished the edges. Plenty more
outfits like WenSmith around the country too.

I just wanted to buy some useful tools.
And use them while I still can.

Using tape on both sides of the board (top and bottom) may also help

Note in that video the saw was guided with a straight edge on the side
of the saw's base plate. A ruler was used but in your case possibly too
thin if the edge of the base plate is slightly rounded.

See the DIY wiki for a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Quick videos
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OwweMQFYCMU

Note the sawboard is only suitable for one blade as you are creating an
edge by using that blade. If you use a blade with a different kerf
(blade width) the cut reference edge will be in a different position

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-05 08:24:31 UTC

Post by alan_m
Using tape on both sides of the board (top and bottom) may also help
http://youtu.be/7s-BfAmPuv0
Note in that video the saw was guided with a straight edge on the side
of the saw's base plate. A ruler was used but in your case possibly too
thin if the edge of the base plate is slightly rounded.
See the DIY wiki for a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard
Quick videos
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OwweMQFYCMU
http://youtu.be/5E1v-qPQJvs
Note the sawboard is only suitable for one blade as you are creating an
edge by using that blade. If you use a blade with a different kerf
(blade width) the cut reference edge will be in a different position

Very helpful, thanks.

--
Mike

alan_m

2024-11-05 09:57:49 UTC

Post by alan_m
http://youtu.be/5E1v-qPQJvs
Note the sawboard is only suitable for one blade as you are creating an
edge by using that blade. If you use a blade with a different kerf
(blade width) the cut reference edge will be in a different position

Very helpful, thanks.

The only thing to watch is which side of the work piece you cover with
the saw-board.

If the saw-board is clamped or covers the piece you want to keep then
aligning the edge of saw-board with a line drawn on the work piece that
is the exact width you want then the cut will give you the exact width
on the "kept" piece.

If the saw board covers the "waste" piece and the edge of the saw board
is aligned with a line on the work piece the cut gives you a "kept"
piece that is smaller by the width of the blade.

Depending on what you are making it may not matter if ALL pieces are
short by the width of the blade as long as they are all the same.
It may not matter if the cut you are making is a one off just to square
off or to give a reference straight edge to the material before marking out.
You can compensate by moving the clamping of the saw-board by the width
of the blade.
The danger is swapping the side the saw-board is clamped to without
thinking during your cutting of ,say, a 8'x 4' sheet and expecting all
cuts to be exactly to the marked line.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-06 08:56:11 UTC

Post by alan_m

Very helpful, thanks.

The only thing to watch is which side of the work piece you cover with
the saw-board.
If the saw-board is clamped or covers the piece you want to keep then
aligning the edge of saw-board with a line drawn on the work piece that
is the exact width you want then the cut will give you the exact width
on the "kept" piece.
If the saw board covers the "waste" piece and the edge of the saw board
is aligned with a line on the work piece the cut gives you a "kept"
piece that is smaller by the width of the blade.
Depending on what you are making it may not matter if ALL pieces are
short by the width of the blade as long as they are all the same.
It may not matter if the cut you are making is a one off just to square
off or to give a reference straight edge to the material before marking out.
You can compensate by moving the clamping of the saw-board by the width
of the blade.
The danger is swapping the side the saw-board is clamped to without
thinking during your cutting of ,say, a 8'x 4' sheet and expecting all
cuts to be exactly to the marked line.

Thanks for the advice Alan, that's probably saved some material from
waste.

--
Mike

Marland

2024-11-04 23:47:24 UTC

Post by Andrew
If you had bought it from a decent wood merchant, they should
have been able to cut it for you, and cut dead straight lines
too which you definitely cannot without cutting guide.
Even some larger B&Q's used to have this facility.

On the two occasions I would have purchased boards if they could be cut I
was asked to come back a couple of days later as there were only a couple
of staff trained on using the wall panel saw and they were only in a
couple of days a week.
Don’t know if other branches were the same but I could not be bothered to
try again and the panel saw was removed shortly after. I wonder if they
ever recouped their investment in it.

GH

No mail

2024-11-05 00:14:19 UTC

The simple answer is that the more teeth the better the cut (assuming
you aren't ripping), but the result depends on the thing you're cutting.
Is this wood, MDF, faced MDF, plywood, faced plywood , or ... ?
A circular saw blade will always cause a little tear-out. This can be
minimised by increasing the number of teeth and tackling the cut in two
stages (a scoring cut before the full cut). If minimising tear out is
important then you could cut slightly oversize and use a router to get
to finish size.

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-05 08:35:15 UTC

Post by No mail

I gave the contents of my workshop to my son a few years ago.
To use that particular router I'd have to go to Canada.

Getting ever closer to 80, I don't think Ill be investing in a router
at this stage. My wife quite likes the new saw but i don't want to
push my luck.

--
Mike

RJH

2024-11-05 04:17:16 UTC

I've the same saw/blade - bought a few months ago. A huge step up from the 18V
Aldi I had before - quieter, quicker, good on batteries.

I'm not sure how much of that I can put down to the blade - a lot probably.
But just to say I've found all cuts clean. That's cutting some solid pine
doors down, MDF, 18mm chip flooring, scaffold board, and 12mm ply.

As others have said, a saw board or a clamped guide, and some decent support
for what's being cut, pretty much essential too for a clean and accurate cut.

--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-05 08:27:57 UTC

Post by RJH

I've the same saw/blade - bought a few months ago. A huge step up from the 18V
Aldi I had before - quieter, quicker, good on batteries.
I'm not sure how much of that I can put down to the blade - a lot probably.
But just to say I've found all cuts clean. That's cutting some solid pine
doors down, MDF, 18mm chip flooring, scaffold board, and 12mm ply.
As others have said, a saw board or a clamped guide, and some decent support
for what's being cut, pretty much essential too for a clean and accurate cut.

Encouraging post, thanks.

--
Mike

John Rumm

2024-11-05 12:45:38 UTC

FWIW, I have the same saw, and have found the cut quality on the
supplied blade is actually pretty decent. I have not bothered replacing
it with anything else as yet...

You might want a finer pitch if doing lots of cross cuts in real wood,
but for ply or MDF it is less of an issue.

(I did buy a multimaterial blade for it, so I could cut steel as well,
but for timber the stock blade is pretty good)
--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
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\=================================================================/

Mike Halmarack

2024-11-06 09:01:09 UTC

On Tue, 5 Nov 2024 12:45:38 +0000, John Rumm

Post by John Rumm
FWIW, I have the same saw, and have found the cut quality on the
supplied blade is actually pretty decent. I have not bothered replacing
it with anything else as yet...
You might want a finer pitch if doing lots of cross cuts in real wood,
but for ply or MDF it is less of an issue.
(I did buy a multimaterial blade for it, so I could cut steel as well,
but for timber the stock blade is pretty good)

That's a clear case of experience making savings on expense.

--
Mike

John Rumm

2024-11-06 12:58:31 UTC