Easiest way to plumb in a kitchen sink tap

Post by James Cort
I have recently fitted a new kitchen. The existing pipes to the sink
terminate in isolating valves of the type with a screw thread on one end
for connecting to taps approximately 60cm below the level of the sink.
The tap is a mixer which was supplied with flexible monobloc tails.
Unfortunately, the tails supplied with the taps are only about 30cm long
and I've been unable to find longer ones.
Given that I am not an experienced amateur plumber, and attaching the
tails to the isolating valves is about where my capabilities begin and
end, what's going to be the quickest, easiest solution?

You dont say what size the tap tails are.
I would expect the existing pipework to be 15mm, with a 15mm iso valve?

If so, then you will need a short piece of 15mm pipe, as well as a nut
and olive to attach a 3inch or so piece of pipe to the iso valves.
You can then buy 2 flexible pipes to attach your 15mm existing pipe to
the tap tails.
Screwfix are about the cheapest for these flexible pipes, and, usually,
keep them in stock:
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/101316/Plumbing/Flexible-Hoses

Alternatively, if the flexible tails on the new tap are long enough,
then just connect a 30cm or so bit of pipe to the existing iso valves.
Without a pic, or better description, it is difficult to see what you
actually need.

Alan.

--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

mark@localhost.com

2008-03-01 19:07:10 UTC

Hi,
I have recently fitted a new kitchen. The existing pipes to the sink
terminate in isolating valves of the type with a screw thread on one end
for connecting to taps approximately 60cm below the level of the sink.
The tap is a mixer which was supplied with flexible monobloc tails.
Unfortunately, the tails supplied with the taps are only about 30cm long
and I've been unable to find longer ones.
Given that I am not an experienced amateur plumber, and attaching the
tails to the isolating valves is about where my capabilities begin and
end, what's going to be the quickest, easiest solution? I'd like to
avoid cutting off the water and extending the pipework below the sink by
a foot if possible - mainly because the working area around there is
pretty tight and I don't trust myself to do it without flooding the kitchen.

I recently fitted a new kitchen tap for the first time.

The flexible tails that come with taps won't fit to 15mm isolation
values, the connection is the wrong way round. Or at least that was
the case with me. The tails supplied with my taps were designed to be
connected to 15mm copper with a compression fitting, not an isolation
valve thread. I'd use the flexible tails supplied and that get a
flexible hose with the right connection on each end to fill the 30cm
space.

Or

Just use copper pipe and connect the supplied tails, you won't need to
touch anything below the isolation valve. That's the idea of it.

s***@gmail.com

2008-03-01 20:17:54 UTC

Post by James Cort
Hi,
I have recently fitted a new kitchen. The existing pipes to the sink
terminate in isolating valves of the type with a screw thread on one end
for connecting to taps approximately 60cm below the level of the sink.
The tap is a mixer which was supplied with flexible monobloc tails.
Unfortunately, the tails supplied with the taps are only about 30cm long
and I've been unable to find longer ones.
Given that I am not an experienced amateur plumber, and attaching the
tails to the isolating valves is about where my capabilities begin and
end, what's going to be the quickest, easiest solution? I'd like to
avoid cutting off the water and extending the pipework below the sink by
a foot if possible - mainly because the working area around there is
pretty tight and I don't trust myself to do it without flooding the kitchen.

You won't need longer ones . Just get a couple of pieces of 15mm
copper of the appropriate length and connect it to the compression
fitting on the bottom end of the flexible tail...the olive should be
inside the nut ..the other end of the copper should be fitted to the
isolating valve ...you will need to get a new pair of olives if you
son't already have them there . No need to cut the water off at all
..That's what the valves are for .

Jim Alexander

2008-03-01 20:18:05 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409

Jim A

s***@gmail.com

2008-03-01 20:28:22 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409
Jim A

Hope not cos all the advice he has been given will be wrong as that
looks like a Tap Connector at the one end ..lol

Jim Alexander

2008-03-01 21:06:09 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409
Jim A

Hope not cos all the advice he has been given will be wrong as that
looks like a Tap Connector at the one end ..lol

Indeed it is because to quote the OP ....

"The existing pipes to the sink terminate in isolating valves of the type
with a screw thread on one end for connecting to taps approximately 60cm
below the level of the sink."

Perhaps the OP has appliance isolating valves but its not 100% clear. A
photo would help.

Jim A

s***@gmail.com

2008-03-01 21:18:04 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409
Jim A

Hope not cos all the advice he has been given will be wrong as that
looks like a Tap Connector at the one end ..lol

Indeed it is because to quote the OP ....
"The existing pipes to the sink terminate in isolating valves of the type
with a screw thread on one end for connecting to taps approximately 60cm
below the level of the sink."
Perhaps the OP has appliance isolating valves but its not 100% clear. A
photo would help.
Jim A

Yeah.When I first read it I wondered about that myself but 60CM ...Is
that not about 24 Inches . Pretty long Tap Tails ??? or does it mean
the valves are 60 CM below the underside of the sink .
As you say a photo is needed or a clearer expl of what the setup is
exactly ..lol

The Medway Handyman

2008-03-01 21:15:30 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409
Jim A

Hope not cos all the advice he has been given will be wrong as that
looks like a Tap Connector at the one end ..lol

Good point! Having re read the OP I reckon you are dead right.

If so, easier to turn the water off & start again from the 'upstream' side
of the isolating valve - using that nut & olive.

Use a 15mm straight compression fitting, a suitable length of 15mm copper
pipe & connect the tail to that.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

James Cort

2008-03-02 09:11:41 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409

A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's a photo of the isolating
valves. They are indeed compression joints at one end and tap
connectors at the other.

Loading Image...

And the area itself:

Loading Image...

Jim Alexander

2008-03-02 09:57:59 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409

A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's a photo of the isolating
valves. They are indeed compression joints at one end and tap connectors
at the other.
http://www.whitepost.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/kitchen/IMG_0099_cropped.JPG
http://www.whitepost.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/kitchen/IMG_0097.jpg

These are appliance connectors not tap connectors but that makes things
easier.

Can't see why this won't work.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=PUXRD2ZLA3XSWCSTHZOCFGA?productId=87081&imageNo=null&ts=51615

Or possibly the 500mm ones might do.

As an aside, always worthwhile testing out all the upstream isolation before
doing any plumbing work. Then you might have more confidence to face up to
future mods.

Jim A

s***@gmail.com

2008-03-02 11:26:17 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409

These are appliance connectors not tap connectors but that makes things
easier.

I'm going to disagree .I think they ARE Isolation Valves with the top
fittings removed .

Post by Jim Alexander
Can't see why this won't work.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=PUXRD2ZLA3XSWCSTHZOCFGA?productId=87081&imageNo=null&ts=51615
Or possibly the 500mm ones might do.

Don't think so .
The OP said that his new taps are monoblocs so will probably have
10mm or 12 mm tails with 15 mm compression at the lower end so we are
pretty much back the original suggestion of
(1) get a couple of pieces of 15mm copper
(2) buy a new isolation valve like the ones already fitted and use
the fittings from either end to replace the missing nuts/olives on
the existing ones
(3) Connect the copper between the valves and the tails and turn the
water on and hope for the best .

This is not actually how I personally would do it though .I would turn
the water off externally and replace the existing copper and valves to
suit the new sink/taps setup and also consider any need for things
like washing machine etc valves ( which hasn't been mentioned )
.

Jim Alexander

2008-03-02 11:39:00 UTC

are you saying you have isolating valves with a similar connection to this?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=GCLGOK305YHG4CSTHZOCFGA?productId=17447&imageNo=null&ts=02409

These are appliance connectors not tap connectors but that makes things
easier.

I'm going to disagree .I think they ARE Isolation Valves with the top
fittings removed .

Think I agree with you in which case the OP would have wasted a load of
money on my suggestion better spent buying a few tools to do the job
properly. Perhaps as you suggest or alternatively converting to push-fit.
But that's another argument.

Jim A

s***@gmail.com

2008-03-04 13:09:58 UTC